Jeff Perrin

Sep 222014
 

If you read the entire post from 2015 WRX and STI Exposed article, you would know that the 2015 WRX shifter is one of the things that I feel is terrible about the car. Normally cars that use cable shifters have a very positive feel and provide excellent feedback, but that is not the case for the 2015 WRX.

This all started the first day I drove the car for an extended period of time. I first hated how the shifter felt regarding the distance between gates. It felt like 1/2 gate was really far away from 3/4 gate. Then 5/6 gate was really close to 3/4 gate. This led me to dig into the shifter more and figure out why this is happening. What I discovered was that the shifter is really sloppy feeling when its in gears 1 and 2 and really tight in the 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th. This gives you the false feeling of the gates being weird. So how can we fix this slop? Easy……

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The PERRIN Shifter Stop is the first of its kind for PERRIN as well as any Subaru. This wasn’t something we ever NEEDED to design before since the transmissions generally shifted really well. If you are a past Suby owner, you a probably wondering how sloppy the WRX shifter is, if you are going to notice this, and then how does this thing work. All good questions, and to be answered below.

 

How Sloppy Is The WRX Shifter?

Using the diagram below, you can see that there is a huge amount of slop in the 1st/2nd gate compared to the others. These measurements are taken in gear at the end of the knob and with very light action moving it left to right. You can add about .25″ to the below numbers if you push on it left to right with a bit more force.  The 1st/2nd gate is so sloppy that it almost feels like its in neutral on a normal car, so when this slop is removed, its amazingly different.  Almost to the point of making the car shift as good as the 6spd STI tranny.

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After installing the PERRIN Shifter Stop, you can see how much this tightens up the slop. Going from 1.00″ of loose sloppy feeling in 1st and 2nd, to .12″ is very noticeable. Even people that have never driven the WRX notice how much better this feels just sitting in the car.

 

How Does This Part Work?

As you can see from the above diagram, there is a varying amount of slop in each gate. The PERRIN Shifter Stop only fixes the slop found in 1st/2nd gate. 3rd/4th gate is already very good because the internal parts of the transmission have very little slop in them. The 5th/6th gate changes because we have you adjust the OEM shifter stop to help tighten things up a little. The OEM shifter stop is mainly used for locking out reverse, but doubles as a shifter stop, lucky for us that it is adjustable!

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You can see the OEM shifter mechanism above and how the PERRIN Shift Stop is similar to the OEM part but for the other side. When you place the transmission into 1st or 2nd gear, the shifter has nothing for it to rest against, so the play that exists inside the transmission (shift forks, syncros and rods) all gets translated to the shifter. In this case it’s more than 1″ of free play!

The PERRIN Shift Stop creates a physical stop on the shifter to shift rod mechanism, this controls the amount of slop translated from the tranny to the shifter. When properly adjusted, the amount of free play goes from 1.00″ to about .10″. Not to mention, the feeling of putting the transmission into 1st, or downshifting into 2nd is significantly improved and feels much more solid.

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Besides removing the slop found in 1st and 2nd, you will find going from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 4th is much more natural feeling and much more positive as the slop doesn’t translate into the sort of lost feeling of which gear you are in. One complaint I had before was the distance from gate to gate being different, and that completely goes away after installing the PERRIN Shift Stop.

This part is like many of our other shifter bushings an short shifters, once it’s installed you will wonder why Subaru didn’t just make it like this to start with.

 

Bonus Fix Included

Another thing I found while coming up with this part is the whole shifter mechanism moves around a bunch as well. The biggest culprit of this is the gap you can see in the below picture. Like with everything, there is a tolerance in what something is made to. In this case, the tolerance between the shifter mechanism parts is pretty large. You would think that the OEM bolts would suck this close, but they do not because they are a shoulder bolt. When they are tightened down they do not actually suck things together. We include some special SS washers that allow this gap to be closed up when the nuts are tightened. This tiny amount of flex translates into a much larger amount of flex the top of shift knob.

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Conclusion

One of my favorite things about modifying cars is improving the way they feel and this part is a perfect example that. It makes such a huge improvement and is so noticeable, that it will bring new joy to your driving experience. This will be a mod that everyone will want and everyone can afford. Add the also affordable PERRIN shifter bushing to this same installation and you will be very pleased with the way your 2015 WRX shifts. This doesn’t only apply to 2015 WRX customers, but also 2010-14 Legacy/Outback with manual tranny, and 2014+Forester with  Manual tranny.

Jun 202014
 

We can make this really simple. If you live on the east coast and/or  own a 2008+Impreza/WRX/STI/Legacy and have more than 40,000 miles on your car, you need this part. Click HERE!

OEM Bushings Will Fail…

Ok being serious now, there are many reasons to want this part. They fail, they are super soft, negatively effect handling under braking and acceleration, and can add to wondering of your car from ruts in the road. Secondary reason to want this part is the added caster and removal of anti-dive/lift geometry to the front suspension, which helps with weight transfer under acceleration and braking. The most common reason to buy them is they fail. As you can see the picture below from a Legacy GT (Shares the same control arm as the 08-14 WRX and 08-10 STI) where the bushing ripped at 34,000 miles. This is more common to happen at 60K+ but still its not good. When the bushing rips, the control arm becomes loose vertically in the car, which then leads to a loose feeling in the front end, shakes in the steering wheel, and clunks as you go over bumps. In extreme situations (like hard driving or track day) the arm will slightly dislodge its self upward causing a constant misalignment of the front end. This is really bad!

The cars that don’t’ need this for durability reasons are 2011+ STI and 2015+ WRX/STI. These cars come standard with a spherical bushing encapsulated in rubber (shown below). Since they are constructed much better, they don’t have that constant wearing and tearing happening at the rubber portion of the bushing. These cars still benefit from removing a flexible rubber bushing as well as the anti-dive/lift reduction feature.

psrs2011bushing

 

Why Is This Called PSRS?

Something that annoys me is that we see people call these the PERRIN ALK or Anti-Lift-Kit. This is frustrating for few reasons, ALK is a term that another company came up with to describe what they felt was the main feature of their version of this part. Secondly, calling them an ALK or Anti-Lift kit, causes tons of confusion with customers as they think this parts reduces the amount of lift under acceleration they have. This is why we call our version of the LCA (lower control arm) rear bushing replacement as a PSRS (Positive Steering Response System). We feel that the change to the steering and feedback you get from the car far out weighs the features of the change to the Anti-Lift geometry. While both do good things is the other features that are more important.

The biggest benefit of the PERRIN PSRS (for all cars) is the removal of the squishy rubber bushing on the car. All of our kits replace the front lower control arm, rear bushing, with a bearing or a super hard polyurethane bushing to remove nearly all deflection under extreme conditions. Using the above picture, you can see how under braking, that the control arm will want to deflect toward the inside of the car, and then under acceleration, the deflection happens the other way toward the outside of the car. When the control arm is deflected either direction, the alignment of the front suspension changes. As an example, your car is setup with zero degrees of toe in the front, and under braking you will get toe in, and under acceleration, you will get toe out. This can cause the car to have bump steer, effects how the car handles and can change the predictability of the car. Removing this unwanted deflection will greatly improve how the car handles under extreme conditions and create a more positive feel between you and the road. Customers love how the car feels like it wants to go where you point it, versus wondering around or wiggling under braking.

psrsdeflectiondiagram

This leads us to the next thing customers really notice, which is how your car will not want to follow ruts in the road. With a stock car with stock wheels and tires, you won’t notice this too much. The moment you put on stiffer suspension, and or wider wheels and tires, you will find that your car will want to wonder in the road between the ruts. This happens for a few reasons, but one of which is the front lower control arm  bushings deflecting. Installing our PSRS significantly reduces this from happening and makes the car track much straighter on freeways and other roads that get rutted from heavy traffic.

Castor

The next biggest features is in our offset version of the part. Most of the kits we make are offered with an optional offset bushing/bearing. This adds .5-1.5 degrees more caster to the cars front suspension. Caster is the angle that the front hubs turn at. If you stand next to your car and look at the front wheels, you might think that when you turn the steering wheel, the wheels rotated perpendicular to the ground, but in fact they don’t. They always rotate on an axis that is offset toward the rear of the car (from the top of the hub). This angle helps do a lot of good things.

PSP-SUS-400_09

 

Why do you want castor? Castor helps reduce the amount of static camber needed on the front suspension. This helps with overall tire wear in a huge way. Imagine that castor increases negative camber to the outside wheel, and increases positive camber to the inside wheel making the angle of the contact patch of the tire better aligned to the road. Castor also helps the cars steering self center after a corner as well as track straighter down the road.

Most OEM suspension setups are done with a lot of compromises for alignment specs. Subaru has always been on the low side for castor specs, relative to other cars but that has changed over the years. For instance the 2002-2005 WRX has 3.0 degrees, 2004-2007 STI has 4.8 degrees, 2008-2014 has 6.25 degrees, and the 2015 STI has 8 degrees. You can see that Subaru has slowly changed it spec for castor over the years, and ending with what most people call the best handling Subaru to date.

Because of how we are adding castor, we are limited by the OEM control arm design  and how much we can add. In most all kits we are able to add .5-.7 degrees of positive castor and on a few we are able to 1.1-1.2 degrees. There are other ways to change castor, but not using the same front lower control arm bushing we are replacing with the PSRS.

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So why doesn’t everyone get the offset bushing version of the PSRS? The only issue comes up when customers have really wide wheels and tires. Since we push the front wheels forward to get the extra castor, it pushes the wheels and tires closer to the fender liner. This mainly occurs on the 2008+ cars where 275 wide tires are a common upgrade. If that is an issue for y0u, then simply purchase the normal (zero offest) PSRS and you will have no tire rubbing or clearance issues at all.

Anti-Lift Geometry Changes

I hate the term ALK or Anti-Lift Kit.  From the beginning we have battle with this because the other companies Anti-lift kit isn’t keeping the car from lifting under acceleration or decelerating.    Its really an Anti-Anti-Lift kit or pro-lift kit.  The company that originally came up with the name describes the name as a fix for anti-dive/lift geometry, which has confused tons of customers, and also some of our team as well  :)

OEM’s build “Anti-Lift” geometry into the front suspension help make the car appear more stable. What this does is reduce how much the front end will dive under braking, or raise under acceleration. To most normal customers, this is a good thing making the car appear to be more stable, but this does have some negative effects as it reduces weight transfer from front to back.

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How does Anti-Lift geometry work? Imagine if your control arm is perfectly level to the ground at all times. When you hit the brakes, all that force is being pushed front to back on the arm and the only thing that compresses the suspension is the weight transferring and bumps. Now imagine the rear of the control arm being lower than the front. Under braking, that force is pushing the arm backwards and up, compressing the front suspension slightly along with the weight transfer and bumps. With the rear of the control arm lower than the front, the suspension compresses more, and more weight is to transfer to the front of the car.

Now look at it from the perspective of acceleration. With the rear bushing mounted lower than the front, as the wheels are pulling the car forward, it extends the front suspension down raising the front of the car. This transfers the weight to the rear of the car. Weight transfer is a good thing (to a point) to help put more weight on the tires that need the most traction. For instance under braking, additional weight helps front tires have more traction, and under acceleration, more weight transferring to the rear adds more traction to the rear tires.

Changing the geometry away from “Anti-Lift” toward “Pro-Lift” has many benefits, but this is not something customers will pick up on and notice. This is why we feel that this is a minor feature compared to the other things mentioned previously.  ….

psrsontrack

 

What Makes the PERRIN PSRS Different?

All of our PSRS kits over the years have been designed to be as deflection free as possible.  Our first version of our 02-07 WRX PSRS used a spherical bearing, later moved to a hard plastic Delrin bushing, which significantly reduced our cost while still being deflection free. From that point on we always tried to incorporate the more expensive spherical bearings where we could. All newer Subaru’s use control arms that have a vertically mounted round type bushings, which allows us to use the more expensive spherical bearing and keep the costs down.

Even more recently switched to a super hard polyurethane for our super popular 02-07 WRX PSRS. This allowed further reduction in cost and virtually no change to performance. While polyurethane is cheaper it does have its place, even with expensive cars like GT-R’s.

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There are a few applications where a spherical bearing could be used, but it adds huge amounts of complexity to the part or sacrifices some amount of durability. For instance on the Nissan GT-R, we used a hard polyurethane instead of the bearing because we needed to be able to adapt our part to the OEM control arm. Same goes for the MINI Coopers as they have a strange hex shape that we adapt to, and it was easier to make this out of polyurethane.

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Besides our use of spherical bearings in many applications, we also exclusively use aluminum for each PSRS body. We see the use of steel sleeves that house urethane or other forms of steel used for the body. This sounds great but any customer of ours that lives in the eastern states where roads are salted and corrosion is very high, these never last. And even worse, are almost impossible to remove after a few years. Making the housings from aluminum not only allows for removal at some point, but also they are significantly lighter than steel versions. Some even use urethane in place of a body,which adds to amount of potential deflection. The less urethane you can use, the less deflection will occur. In the above GT-R and WRX PSRS, you can see how the thickness of urethane is pretty small, making the bushing stiffer overall.

We also try to make them as adjustable as possible. This ranges from offering another part number that has an offset bearing, or being able to press the body into a control arm at a different angle, or something like the GT-R PSRS that has a housing that can be bolted in a few different directions. When we first launched our PSRS’s we only offered the offset style. After we had a lot of feedback from customers wanting a part they could install and NOT be forced to get an alignment done, we offered the zero offset versions. From that day on, we have offered both styles or offered one part number that would cover both.

 

Will I Really Notice The PSRS After Installation?

In most cases you will find a huge difference in how the car feels. But, that depends on the state of the car, which model of PSRS, and what car you are installing it on. For instance an 02 WRX with 130K miles will have a much softer bushing compared to a 2007 STI with 30K miles (uses the part). So an 2002 WRX customer is going to notice this way more than the 2007 STI customer purely based on wear and tear. Another example is an 2008 STI customer versus a 2014 STI customer. Between these two years (eliminating wear and tear) the 2014 STI has the newer larger rubber/spherical bearing type, and the difference in stiffness isn’t as large. This is why on a 2014 STI we recommend the Offset PSRS, which will absolutely make a difference. As you can see the effects of installing our PSRS will vary depending on the car it is being installed , but in most cases the difference is very noticeable and will quickly become one of those things you wish the manufacture did from the beginning.

May 282014
 

New Tests Added May 28th 2014

Customers constantly ask us “How loud is that exhaust?”. We have a really hard time answering this question because how does works describe a sound? How can you compare this to something else? Even doing a video has it’s limitations because of how and where a microphone was placed. We thought we could come up with a way that can accurately give a customer a comparison between different cars, different systems and how they sound.

Step one, buy a quality decibel meter. Step two, figure out a way we could consistently test any car at anytime. Step three, start testing!

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This Is Just A Test!

Keep in mind, these tests are ONLY for comparison purposes to help provide an answer to the question “How loud is this?”. These tests are not saying any of these systems will pass any local law pertaining to a decibel limit for your car. If you are unsure of a system passing a local decibel limit law, please have a profession test out your exhaust to determine if its legal.

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Where To Place Decibel Meter

What we decided on was a placing the decibel meter in specific locations for each car, then holding and reving the RPM’s up to specific points and recording the decibel reading.  We originally had 10 ft from the back (setting on ground), 5ft from the right (setting on ground), 5ft from the front (setting on ground) and inside the car (windows up). We found quickly that the 5ft in front of the car was louder in most cases than the side due to the engine noise.  After 8 cars of testing we gave up and stopped using that as a measurement.

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What RPM’s To Test

Next thing to determine was what engine RPM to hold while recording. Idle is an obvious one to record, as well as other RPM’s that you might be constantly at. We chose to 2000RPM and 4000RPM. The last one is a little harder as we chose to do an idle to 6000-ish throttle blip. This one isn’t quite as consistent, but the correlation from exhaust to exhaust came out exactly how we wanted it. We know we could have gone crazy and done way more, on the road, on the dyno, but we wanted to keep this simple and something a customer could easily understand at a quick glance.

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What To Test

We plan to test as many things as we can. We plan to test the 02-07 WRX (with the single sided exhaust system), 08-14 WRX (sedan and hatch exhaust systems), 2015 WRX (with equal length header and lower mounted turbo), and BRZ. From there we will obviously test stock cars without modifications as a base, then after that, we will test all our catbacks, midpipe options, downpipes, front pipes, headers and whatever else might affect the sound coming out of the exhaust. Even if its something we don’t make, we will test it, if its not too much trouble. We will make a blog post that covers all the cars, the test and constantly update it as we add a few new cars.

 

Diagrams

Below are the graphics we came up with to show off the different readings we found. This graphic along with a simple 4×3 chart will easily explain the sound changes from stock to parts being tested. As you can see from the below diagram, the decibel meter was placed in three main locations, Inside of car, outside and to the side 5ft, and behind the car 10ft.

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Along with the above diagram we will be including a chart that explains all the reading and the results. Most tests will have both the stock decibel reading as well as the decibel reading from the part(s) we tested. That way, there is a quick way to reference the difference in sound levels. Using the info provided below, you should at least be able to get a rough idea how much louder an exhaust might be. Or if you have heard one of the below setups, you can get a rough idea how much louder or quieter another one might be.

The idea is to create a consistent way to test sound levels of cars. This isn’t to prove the system is legal in your state, but only to provide a rough idea how different setups compare to one another. I think with the graphic we have, the data we have, and the ability to test any car quickly, we will have a really clean way to show customers how systems compare to one another.

Below are the results from all of tests we have done. We will constantly be updating this post as new tests are done.

 

2013-14 BRZ/FR-S

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2013_14_FRSBRZ_3in_catback_wo_resonator_3in_frontpipe_w_cat_25in_overpipe 

 

2011-14 WRX/STI Sedan

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2012_15_STI_header

 

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2015 WRX

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2015_WRX_3in_catback_wo_resonator

 

 

 

 

 

May 282014
 

One of the features I really like about the the 2015 WRX and STI is the LED Headlights standard on the STI,  WRX premium and limited models. The headlights are absolutely amazing at night and are far superior to the older HIDs that came on the STI’s. Subaru did such a good job on this car and its hard to find things that are flawed and or need improving. With that said, there is one thing I found. The fog lights are terrible, don’t really do anything and they look out of place on the front of the car as they don’t match the LED headlights!

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The reason for me complaining about this is they are just Halogen bulbs, which color wise are yellow and do not match the super bright blue LED headlights. Subaru stepped up to the plate and put LED headlights in these 2015 models, but didn’t think to keep that high end theme going with the foglights. You don’t any new Audi running around with halogen fog lights do you??

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Replacing Halogen bulbs with HID or LED bulbs isn’t exactly new, but PIAA has just come out with an LED replacement H16 bulb that brings a super high quality LED option to the market. As you can see its more than just a bulb, but an actual controller and harness adapter that is waterproof to ensure it lasts a very long time.

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AS you can see, the color is almost the same as the OEM 2015 WRX and STI headlights, so from nothing more than a visual appearance, they do wonders for the car. The nasty looking yellow halogens that came on the car (first above picture) really ruins how the new 2015’s look while coming down the road at you. From a functionality stand point they are actually functional now! Before the yellow-ish lights barely lit up the road and the main LED headlights were way overpowering. With the PIAA LED bulbs installed, they actually light up the road and make driving on twisty roads at night, quite a lot of fun.

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Each bulb them selves is an electronic circuit that consists of the drivers necessary to run the super powerful LED. The housing is made of high quality die cast aluminum, which not only makes it durable, but also help dissipate the heat generated from the circuitry.

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As you can see from the picture, this is a pretty solid unit with not only an adapter harness, but also a special controller that drives the LED circuit. Of course they plug right into the OEM harness so there is ZERO cutting and splicing. Only thing tricky about the installation is the direction they get plugged in. The circuit that controls the bulb requires a specific positive an negative connection to power. Since normal halogen bulbs don’t care which pin gets the positive or negative wire, car manufactures don’t consistently put them on the same side of the bulb. So PIAA has a harness that plugs in both directions. It’s a simple part of the the installation as you simply plug in the bulb, and turn on the lights. If it lights up you are good, if not, just switch the direction of the plug.

Now all we need is to get the LED replacement for the high beam bulbs!

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 Posted by on May 28, 2014 Misc. B.S., Part Design & Tech Tagged with: , , , ,
May 232014
 

We last left you with the dyno graphs from the stock 2015 STI and WRX. We showed how the 2015 STI spools slower than the 2008-2014 STI,yet still makes more power by about 20 Wheel HP. We were slightly concerned that Subaru may have really pushed the car with the newest ECU tune and there wouldn’t be much for us to gain from an ECU tune.

Cobb offered us an Accessport for the 2015 STI long before they were released to the public. We were lucky to have this offered to us as it gives us something to keep the hype going with PERRIN and the 2015 STI. It also helps us with R&D on new parts we will be offering, and of course its a great way for us to help Cobb with making sure there are no bugs with the software. Also, I felt pretty special getting serial number 2 (#1 went to Cobb) of the new part number AP3-SUB-004! So how did this tune?

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Dyno Tuning Time

Lance from Cobb came over to give me a few pointers about some of the minor changes in the software and also hand delivered our V3 Accessport. Essentially all the same maps are available to tune on the 2015 STI, but there are a few that changed that simplify ignition timing as well as effect it in different ways. Its not really important for the normal customer, but essentially its all the same, except for that weird added lag and additional HP it starts with.

Staring out the day we did a bunch of baseline runs with out the Accessport installed. This is important as it had been running around on 92 octane Oregon fuel for a couple of weeks. Our car came up with about 260 Wheel HP and 265 ft-lbs of torque. After installing the Accessport and applying some of the basics to the map we saw pretty awesome gains starting to appear.

2015_stistage1testboost

Since we have enough experience to know what kind of boost levels we can run on a stock STI, we stuck to those levels of about 19psi at lower RPM and tapered it off to redline. We quickly saw more WHP than we would see on a normal Stage 1 tune from a 2008-14 STI. Only thing that was different is that we really were not able to gain any more power from about 6000 RPM on. No matter the boost or timing, it just didn’t make anymore. Keep in mind this is all done on stock STI. With exhaust system and other mods like an intake, for sure there will be more HP to gain.

boostgauge

After spending about a half a tank of gas tuning, pushing and finding the limits of ignition timing, we did find a few interesting things. As we mentioned before about the laggier turbo, and the fact it was making more HP than older models, we suspected a change to the turbo it self. It is the same turbo part number as found on older cars (VF48), but something seemed different…

Evidence of this can be found with boost levels we can tune to. Older cars is that 14psi at 6500 was always about the most you could get because of the limits of the wastegate  and smaller turbo. On the 2015, I am finding that we can hold peak boost much longer than before and more at redline. The additional 2psi we can run at 5000-5500, really helps make peak power much higher than found on old cars.

2015_stistage1test 

The above graph is NOT the normal Cobb Stage 1 map, but a custom map done on our dyno to our specific car. I am only saying that because the results will vary and Cobb’s maps may be more or less HP from here. As you can see, running more boost makes and additional 25WHP and 50ft-lbs of torque. This is exactly what this car needs, just a bit more low end and mid-range grunt.

How does this compare to a Stage 1 from the older STI’s? Besides slight loss of low end power from the slower spooling turbo, it does make more power once on boost, and quite a bit more in the midrange. The 2015 STI really likes more ignition timing is which is why there are pretty awesome gains to be had over previous years.

15stg1vs08stg1

 

Tuners Aspect of Tuning the 2015 STI

With most new applications for the Accessport, they always find something that Subaru did that is different. It’s the small changes to maps that already exist or the additional use of maps that were never used before.  During our testing, we found a few small things that don’t really affect HP, but change the tuning strategy.

For boost control related things, there isn’t anything that is different. It’s still Max and Min duty cycle maps as well as the PI controls. Fueling maps are the same, for the most part. Ignition timing maps are where things change. Subaru has simplified the way it does timing, which is great for us. At the same time, one of things we discovered was a new map that affects timing under certain conditions. This is a map that has existed in years past, but was never used. Other than that, the maps are pretty much the same.

Some of the things I noticed during tuning, was how the ECU and engine acted differently than previous cars. For instance, the “Fine Learned Knock” is much more active and changes run to run. You can get some “Fine Learned Knock” then change the base timing (to correct the retarded timing), and the next run it starts to go away. In previous cars it would take much longer and we would end up resetting the ECU. Also our normal AVCS map doesn’t have the same effect as it does on the other cars. I spent a lot of time adjusting the AVCS to optimize spool and power and applying this logic to the 2015 STI (in stock form) doesn’t do anything. Lastly is ignition timing. The stock timing from 5000RPM to redline is highly optimized and there isn’t much to gain. As you can see from the above graph it just poops out from 6000RPM on. This is also why we didn’t run the car past 6500RPM too much as it didn’t make a difference. Again this is on a stock car, and that should improve with a few aftermarket parts.

One last comparison for fun. Below you can see the 2008 STI compared to a 2015 STI, compared to the 2015 STI with a custom tuned Stage 1 map. From old car to new car, you can see that there is a lot to be gained from just a tune. Anyone considering buying a 2014 STI should look at this and really think about how much more fun, and faster the 2015 STI will be with minimal mods.

08vs15vs15stg1

I am still really in love with this car and can’t wait to start tossing on parts that will make even more HP. The first mod I have planned is one of our equal length headers. Yes, I am not a boxer sound fan, sorry fan boys. I love the smoother, more quiet equal sound our headers provide. Also, they increase turbo spool along with make more power, so that will be a fun first mod to show off.

After that, a catback exhaust, then our cold air intake system. This is a little unorthodox compared to how other people modify their cars, but it will be interesting to see how the header works on a stock car or with a tune. I think with all three of them installed we will easily break 300 WHP and maybe even 320WHP!

 

One more thing!

So, why does the turbo spool slower?? We are not ready to rip the turbo off the car as we have lots of testing to do, but I did measure the turbine housing in a place that I could easily replicate on a Vf48 from a 2008 STI. I really suspect that Subaru installed a larger AR housing on the 2015 STI. As you can see the boost comes on later, but makes more mid-range and top end power than it did before. This is exactly what we see when swapping to larger turbine housings on our rotated turbo kits.

What I discovered isn’t something that I can say is proof the turbine housing is larger, but this was an accurate and consistent way to check. It’s a pretty small difference, and it could be just a casting change, but the tooling used to make these housings are more accurate than this. I really think this is what changed about these car, but I can’t be 100% sure until I rip off the turbo and measure things. On a side note, Subaru says the part number is the same from 2014 STI to the 2015 STI.

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May 232014
 

STI Dyno Session

Pretty much every tuner in the world thinks the 2015 STI is the same old boring EJ25 engine and that it’s going to tune the same and make the same power. Well I hate to say it, but they’re all wrong (as was I)!

Our initial dynoing of the 2015 STI showed something very interesting. It made more power than all previous STI’s. I’m not talking about a couple WHP, but more like 20 Wheel HP at 5500 RPM. The other very interesting thing is that the boost comes on slower than it has in the past. So why does it make more power? Did Subaru really push this new engine and tune it much closer to the edge? Why was the turbo laggier? Was this a tuning thing or something else new?

Looking at the boost curve of the 2015 STI and 2008 STI, you can see how much slower the boost comes on. It’s roughly 300 RPM sooner on the 08 STI, which is either one or all of these things: Bigger turbo, larger turbine AR, ECU programmed to build slower boost, Cam timing not optimized at low RPM, and or different cams installed. After the initial onset of boost, they run pretty much the same boost. What for sure causes this may take a little while to figure out, but we have an idea what the main change is  :)

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Below is a comparison of the stock HP levels of the 2015 and 2008 STI. You can see how the slower spooling turbo makes for less torque at lower RPM, but then you see how the 2015 starts to make a lot more Wheel HP from 4500 RPM on up. From there until redline it’s almost a solid 20 Wheel HP change.

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If the 2015 EJ25 STI engine is rated at the same 305HP and 290ft-lbs, how can it be making more power than it had previously? Did the SAE standard for measuring HP change? Did Subaru purposely underrate the HP? No wonder why Subaru said this is their fastest STI built to date. No wonder why the cars are going faster 0-60 than they have before. I am not complaining at all, because I love this car so much!

I may complain if there isn’t anymore HP to gain after we can finally tune the ECU…

 

WRX Dyno Session

Lastly is the 2015 WRX and how this new FA20DIT engine does for wheel HP. Below is the 2015 STI vs the 2015 WRX. You can see that the STI still makes way more power than WRX, and it follows the engine rated HP split of 35HP pretty well (305hp vs 268hp). We actually dynoed the WRX before we did the STI, and I was a little worried that the WRX was making way to much power and that the STI wasn’t going to show much of an increase. Luckily I was wrong.

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Below you can see the boost curve of the two cars as well. Since the 2.0L WRX engine is smaller, it has to run more boost to get more power. Also another interesting thing is how the WRX builds boost faster than the STI. Being it has a smaller engine and a similarly sized turbo, that is pretty amazing! That new, lower mounted twin scroll turbo is pretty awesome!

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After seeing the boost it runs, how responsive it is, i really think the 2015 WRX has great potential to make quite a bit more power. Dare I say, Stage 1 could be 40WHP gain?? I think it won’t be too far off from that!

Now all we have to do is get an Accessport to be able to tune these new cars! Hurry up with that Cobb! 

 Posted by on May 23, 2014 About Your Car, Dyno Test & Tune Tagged with: , , , , , , ,
May 222014
 

As you know we have been busy fitting parts, re-designing parts, and coming up with completely new parts for these cars for a few weeks now. It’s time to get on with the pictures and commentary some of you have come to expect from us every time a new car comes out.

Where’s the FA25DIT!!

I have been dying for a new car from Subaru for a long time. It had been since 2007 (Model Year 2008) since Subaru launched something really new. Like many people, when they launched the new cars, I was let down by the STI due to the fact that it had the same power plant and drive train as the previous years. I suspected the drive train would be the same bombproof setup, but come on, the EJ engine!!!  Subaru sold us on its best handling, fastest blah blah blah. Sounds great and all, but I wanted a new FA25 DIT, where is this! Even if my initial thoughts are negative, Subaru is smart. Keeping one of the two new cars using the same basic power train, allows the aftermarket world to get ahead of the game and offer some parts for the cars right away. Secondly this allows all the motor sports teams to be able to have a program from the launch of the car. Both are important to keep the whole tuner and enthusiast market alive and rockin’.  Had Subaru done what most of us wanted (Make the STI with a FA25DIT engine), this would have really put a damper on Subaru’s motor sports teams being competitive right away. So I get it, but I still WANTED A NEW ENGINE!!

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Initial Thoughts

Initial thoughts before I even drove them or sat in them – Which car do I like? What car will be the most popular one? I want the WRX engine in the STI. That would make me happy. Knowing that won’t happen, I initially am more excited for the WRX. The WRX is the bread and butter of our world, where the STI is still a rather limited car and limited customer base. So for me, the WRX was what I was drawn to. Yet, I still bought an STI for myself, why is that?

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Well, the STI is still my car of choice for a few reasons, most of which are non-drive train related. Yes it has the more powerful engine, but it’s all the rest of the things. The brakes, the nicer wheels, the wing, and probably the biggest thing which makes me the happiest to see every day is the interior. The Alcantara seats, the door panels, the red stitching, and red accents make the interior amazing. It’s the one thing I see and touch every day that makes me really love the STI more than the WRX. I made this choice without even seeing either car and as long as someone can afford the higher priced STI, I think they will be equally as happy with their decision.

 

Why STI over the WRX?

Now that we have received both cars and I have driven both, I can say that I stand behind my decision. The interior of this car is amazing compared to all the other Subaru’s I have owned. The $200-300 more that Subaru spent on it, absolutely shows! Even the WRX interior is far better than it was before. The cloth interior and panels on the doors looks really nice, along with both cars having the flat-bottomed steering wheel.  Both the 2015 WRX and STI are a huge step up over the older cars.

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As you can see, from the driver’s point of view, the cockpit is far nicer and that flat-bottomed steering wheel is very “race-car” like. The only difference in the WRX and STI steering wheels is the STI has the perforated leather side panels compared to the WRX’s smooth leather.

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Both cars share the same dashboard with the fake carbon fiber inlays. Even though this is fake, it is probably one of the best looking fake carbon fiber parts out there. It’s still not everyone’s favorite, but it’s a huge step up over the FR-S interiors carbon fiber looking parts.

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The actual gauge cluster found in the STI and WRX share the same basic construction with the super nice bright faces with white needles. This has become the standard for Subaru, instead of only offering this in the STI models. Again, this really makes the WRX stand out a lot more, and not feel like such a downgrade.

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Another feature shared between both cars is the center display located in the center of the dash. Most WRX fans will love the fact that is has a factory boost gauge with peak boost readings in a super easy to read display. There are other displays to scroll through like MPGs (both instant and trip versions), a clock, a graphic showing the AWD system working, and a few others. As most all customers will find, they are all pretty much useless and the boost gauge is what you will leave it on; no one wants to know your MPGs after driving these cars, as you will find it’s never very good as it’s hard to keep you foot off the gas

Below is a side-by-side comparison of the interiors all shot from the same angle. They will all go in the order of the WRX, STI, then STI Launch Edition package.

From Right Side Looking In….

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Door Panel From a Few Feet Back…

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Close-up of Door Panel Material…

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It is hard to tell in the pictures, but the WRX cloth is very nice and really isn’t a turn off. A few of us at the shop have owned a WRX in one form or fashion and we all think the same thing in that the 2015 WRX interior is really awesome, but the STI interior is even better!

 

Physical Differences in the WRX and STI

The most obvious difference between the cars is the engine. But the more interesting things are the little items that changed between the cars. This is one of my favorite things to do, poking around to see what is different, taking notes on things, taking pictures to help with future development on parts and it helps satisfy my curiosity.

 

Since Subaru changed the wheel bolt pattern on the WRX, I wanted to see if they changed the offset or anything else important about the wheels. Both cars have the same tire, just one is a 245 and the other is a 235.

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You can see that the WRX wheel size and offset is the same as it has always been. The good news is that there is a lot more room for bigger wheels and tires. The included tires are actually pretty decent summer tires with a nice low tread wear rating, showing they are a pretty sticky for the kind of driving we like to do.

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Both the STI and WRX now have available LED headlights. At night these lights are amazing, and by far the best headlights ever installed in a Subaru. They light up the road perfectly with only one issue: the high beams and fog lights (if equipped) are halogen. That means when you hit the high beams, or turn on the fog lights, everything looks really yellow. The only bummer is the WRX doesn’t come with the LED lights, only the WRX Premium and higher levels do. For the first time in the US, Subaru has installed an auto-leveling headlight system.  Since 2004, customers have asked us about the tab or holes on the rear left control arm. Customers would think they are missing a part or something fell off, which is pretty funny. So, gone is the typical rolling type button to adjust the lights up and down.

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Since the STI shares the same engine as the older car, it also shares the same type of steering rack. The STI’s hydraulic assisted steering rack (13.0 Ratio vs. 2014 had 15.0) and the WRX (14.5 ratio)

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All STI Models come with the heated windshield and side mirrors as standard, whereas the WRX you have to step up to the premium model or higher before you get that. It’s a minor feature but still a cool one. You can see in the below picture how they removed the washer nozzles from the hood and moved them down to the plastic cover. I love this as it makes washing the hood easier and look much nicer.

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Because the WRX has the FA20DIT engine with the turbo mounted down low, there are a few things chassis-wise that are different between the STI and WRX. The most noticeable thing is the lower splash guard hangs down lower by roughly 1.00″. You can see the picture below and how there is a large bulge in the middle as well as the two outer areas on the WRX.

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With the plastic splash guard removed from the WRX, you can see further bracing as well as another panel to be removed. The two large braces you see in the picture below act as a skid plate to keep the turbo and other vital engine parts protected during an “off-road” situation. These braces are actually an aluminum forging, and are actually pretty nice.

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While I was down there poking around, I noticed something pretty interesting. The front 02 sensor has 5 wires. This indicates that is a wideband type 02 sensor, which isn’t new for Subaru turbo cars to have on the front sensor. The difference is previous cars had a 4-wire type, which was accurate in the normal operation range of the engine, but not accurate under full throttle. This new sensor looks to be one that will read accurately to the rich side of things and may be able to replace the need for aftermarket wideband 02 sensors.

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This is one of the other differences in the WRX compared to the STI. It’s one of those things that has to be different because of the engine that is in the WRX, and I chose to take a picture because this is what the “downpipe” looks like for these cars. Since the turbo is mounted low and exits the bottom of the car, the downpipe has to pass under the subframe and still clear the ground, hence the reason for the flattened portion of the pipe! From this you can see there is some decent improvement to be had in the exhaust system coming right off the turbo. It may be a little tight fitting a 3.0″ tube there and still have ground clearance on cars that are really slammed.

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There are a few other little changes because of the new engine, which you will see over time from us in a future post on new parts we start to come out with.

Changes for the Better

Anytime a new model comes out, we all hope Subaru listened to us and made things better. Well they have! Subaru has done a lot of little things that all add up and make their cars that much better!

 

We all like to put on wider wheels and tires as well as lower the car (sometimes too much) and there are always limits. Subaru has watched how we all end up rolling fenders (or let the tires do the rolling for us) and they have finally gotten rid of that huge lip in the rear fender. As you can see, they removed the area that always rubbed and always need to be modified. The removal of this lip saves us all tons of time in not have to roll fenders or cut sheet metal. A benefit of Subaru doing this is that 275 wide tires will easily fit on this car as shown below.

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Below is a great example of a 275/30/19 on a 10″ wide wheel using a 38mm offset. This is a pretty tight setup on slammed car, but it fits the look that many people are going for these days. A perfect setup would be this with a 45mm offset. As you can see, it sits very flush with the fender and looks really good as is.

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Normally we see these flat panels on special JDM models of the STI and WRX, but now they come on the US spec. cars! There has always been a front splash guard on the WRX and STI, and now they have added all the side panels.

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As you can see, the side panels cover the normally ribbed and hole drilled frame rails, which created disruption in airflow under the car, which ends up creating noise. The bigger benefit for us enthusiasts is the bottom of the car is more aerodynamic which does help with better downforce on the car at high speeds.

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This is another small detail that Subaru has done to make this car quieter, and when you add up all the things, it’s no wonder why it’s so nice cruising down the road.

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The rear suspension appears unchanged, but it has been for the better; the upper control arm is not a heavy cast iron part, but rather a thinner sheet metal version. Smart on Subaru’s part to help reduce the weight of the car and probably reduce cost. More importantly, the rear suspension is based off the BRZ rear suspension with a shorter trailing arm and I am sure some minor changes to locations of the suspension pivots.

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On the front suspension it appears as though a few things were the same, but that also isn’t the case. Once only found on the 2011+ STI, the front control arm rear bushing with spherical bearing is now on both the STI and WRX. This bushing has much less deflection than the older style bushing and significantly reduces the amount of deflection in the front wheels under braking. They have moved the bushing down to remove some of the anti-lift geometry built into the car. This is something we have been doing with our PSRS kits for years!

 

The other most obvious thing is the extra brace that connects the lower portion of the subframe to the rear portion of the chassis. This added brace along with an even beefier lower control arm bushing mount brace really helps lock down the front end of the car.

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Just like the added bracing to the front of the car, there is added bracing to the rear. Now there is a really simple, but effective, bar that ties the mounting points for the rear subframe to the chassis even better. This bar attaches at 6 main points across the spare tire well and outer frame rails. Customers with 2014 or older WRX’s and STI’s will NOT be able to put this on their car without a bunch of drilling and welding.

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For those of us who are bleeding brakes all the time, you will love how the clutch master cylinder reservoir is now merged with the brake master cylinder reservoir. It’s not a huge improvement, but it really cleans up the engine bay.

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How do they drive?

After driving my STI for a solid week and having a few back road track days, I was very familiar with how the STI handled and worked. I found the limits of the car and felt really confident in how it performs. Probably the biggest change is how much flatter the car is around corners and how the Torque Vectoring system works. It is amazing how much difference this makes in the car going around really sharp corners, or when you do really stupid things with the car. Some might be wondering what this system really is or how it works; it’s very simple in how it works and very complicated in how Subaru makes it work. If you think about when you go around any corner, all four wheels turn at different speeds. The Torque Vectoring system works simply by keeping the wheels at the proper theoretical speed through the corner by applying the brakes (and sometimes reducing engine power) to control the car. This means, it goes were you point it!  A very cool system that first came to light on a few high powered front wheel drive cars where application of power in a corner typically resulted in understeer. Typically AWD systems create the same understeer type scenario under power. Subaru’s torque vectoring system significantly reduces this along with putting more engine torque to the rear (41:59 Front to Rear) it completely changes how the car feels going around corners.

Are there any quirky things about how the STI drives? Since no car is perfect, there are a few minor issues I can gripe about. The one thing I really dislike is the SI-Drive settings. On the older cars, “I” mode was way too lazy on the throttle, meaning it took a lot accelerator pedal use to get it out of first gear. On the 2015, the “I” mode is setup exactly how I would want it with nice power modulation. The gripe lies with the other modes. “S” mode is pretty twitchy feeling which makes 1st gear a little rough and part throttle provides a decent amount of boost. Then “S#” mode is out of control! It is way too twitchy in 1st gear and crazy boost at part throttle. I tried driving the car on the edge in this mode and it’s very hard and not smooth.  So I have come to HATE the SI drive button and can’t wait to change it’s tuning so all modes at least feel the same! The only other thing to criticize about the way the car drives, is that I really wish it had more low-end power. Coming from a much higher HP car and my other STI, I must be spoiled. Understanding that with a tune and an exhaust system this will be fixed, but I really wish it had a bit more power from 2500-3500 RPM.

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With all my seat time in the STI, it was easy to be able to figure out how the WRX would compare with taking it out for a nice 45 minute drive. Initially, the WRX feels snappy and faster, but then you quickly realize that it feels this way only because of how Subaru has programmed the throttle to act. Like many new cars, the ECU is programmed to make the car feel torque-ier than it really is by changing the pedal to throttle relationship. In a normal situation, if you were driving the car with your foot pressing halfway down on the accelerator pedal, you expect half the power or so. When pressing the pedal to the floor, you continue to get more power. Same goes for pressing the pedal down say 25% during normal light-load situations. Car companies have been slowly changing the relationship of the accelerator pedal to throttle making 50% pedal equal to 100% throttle. What this means is when you press the accelerator pedal down 50% it’s actually as though you have the car floored and as you press the pedal down more, there is no more power. This is exactly what Subaru has done on the WRX! This is what makes the car feel snappier, and have more torque at light throttle; it’s because at 10% accelerator pedal position, the throttle is close to 50% open! It really comes to light when you are driving the car hard at part throttle though a corner, then you come out of the corner and give it more throttle and there isn’t anymore power. It’s not that the car is slow at all, it’s just that there isn’t that smooth application of power where half throttle means half power. Car companies have been doing this for a while now and normal people really like it as it makes the car feel faster. But to me and other people that are more “driver” oriented, this is very annoying.

With my major issue with the WRX out of the way, we can hit on some of the positives. The engine is very, very smooth and also very quiet. In fact it’s so quiet that Subaru removed one of the resonators on the exhaust to help make it louder. The sound from the exhaust is still pretty mellow compared to the STI which is actually a good thing. I am not a boxer rumble fan as exhausts are always boomy and loud until you install an equal length header on an STI. The WRX starts out with an equal length header as well two large cats that help keep the noise down. Since Subaru changed the engine to the new FA style with the chain driven cams, the actual noise coming from under the hood is much less. We also discovered that Subaru had added more sound deadening material to the doors and other parts to help keep the noise down. This is a small detail that just adds to how much nicer these cars feel and sound while in the driver’s seat.

The power from the engine itself is very good; it feels almost the same as the 2.5L EJ engine in the STI up until about 4500 rpm. Since most people drive their car in that range anyway, it’s not power you really miss until you start pushing the car hard. Shifting both cars at redline really allows you to notice the lesser power after 4500 RPM. Shifting the WRX at lower RPM actually feels better because it lands in the meat of the power band.  Either way, the WRX is not slow by any means, and on our dyno, it makes the same wheel horsepower as the 08-14 STI’s do. So that tells you something!

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Below is the boost curve found on the WRX and STI.

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As you can see from the dyno graphs, the STI does make more power (a lot more than it did before), but the WRX is more responsive. Being that the WRX is a smaller engine, you wouldn’t think this, but it’s due to its new lower mounted turbo (closer to the engine, as well as new longer stroke engine). The turbo may be sized slightly smaller as well, but we haven’t dug this far into it yet.

One thing about the WRX that is better than the STI is that they have a much more solidly mounted steering rack. When looking over both cars and seeing what parts fit and which don’t, the PERRIN Steering Rack Bushings were one of the things we tried to fit. Very quickly we found they don’t because of the completely different steering rack. We tested to see how soft the bushings are using a pry bar against strategic points and we found virtually ZERO movement! This is great as it is one of the things that helps make these cars steer more precisely than before. Even if the steering ratio is slower than the STI, the overall feel of this car is very, very good and far better than previous models.

How does the WRX handle? In the corners you can feel the slightly smaller, less grippy tires come into play as well as the softer suspension. Even with it not feeling quite as solid, the Torque Vectoring System really pulls the car through the corners and points the car where you tell it. I really feel like this new system they have employed on these cars is what makes the 2015 WRX as good as everyone says it is. It’s surely a major step forward compared to any other WRX that has come out. In fact, I would say that it’s better than almost any past STI…

So handling-wise how does this compare to the STI? In a comparison from stock to stock, for sure the STI is better. It’s more solid feeling and the STI’s quicker steering rack is what makes it far superior. Yes, once modded both cars will handle the same, but the “feel” of the STI will always win with that quicker steering rack.

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Few last notes about the WRX. Shifter in WRX is weird and loose. You can put it into the 1/2 gate, and the shifter moves left to right quite a bit. It also seems to have a super short distance between the 3/4 gate and the 5/6 gate. It’s just weird comparing it to the STI 6spd tranny, which is one of the best shifting trannys around. One last thing, the steering rack in WRX has a rubber dampener that reduces the feedback to the driver. You can feel that the dampener comes into play when you turn left to right fast or in a parking lot where you are maneuvering the car. In track day situations, I think this part will become very noticeable and something people will be looking to fix ASAP. Both of these issues are things we plan on solving with parts we will be making.

Conclusion on the driving and power aspects of the cars – The STI is better handling mainly from the drivers feedback of the quicker ratio steering rack. The overall handling difference in the corners is very similar, but the WRX feels a bit softer. Other than that, once both these cars see some aftermarket suspension, it will be really hard to say one is better than the other. Both cars have plenty of power to make who drives them grin. Of course we all want more power, or smoother power, or extra features, but I think most people who buy these cars will find that there is plenty of power on tap until the aftermarket world catches up.

 

What Parts do we make and what parts are we going to make?

It’s amazing how many parts fit that we already have. Knowing that this is a different chassis, different engine (on the WRX) and then the interior being very different, we expected almost nothing to fit. For the STI almost all engine parts we make fit perfectly. There isn’t really anything that needed changing except for a couple instructions needing to be updated. The drivetrain on this car is also the same, which means all the engine mounts, tranny mounts, shifter bushings and other drivetrain related parts, all fit. It’s almost easier to say what doesn’t fit. Front sway bar and front endlinks are different and require redesign. The front mount intercooler needs a total redesign as well; this is due to the bumper and routing of tubes needing to change. Other than that for PERRIN performance related parts, the STI doesn’t have many other items that need to be redesigned.

 

One of the first items we put on our car was the catback exhaust. Our system fits perfectly due to the way the center section is adjustable. This does fit on both WRX and STI.

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One of the more surprising things to fit was the strut bar. Surely Subaru would have moved the strut towers for this new chassis… nope they left them the same!

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The WRX on the other hand is where some of these things change. There are a ton of parts we have that will work but also a bunch we will need to remake. The PSRS requires some new spacers (same story for STI), our water pump pulley needs to be smaller, intake system needs a complete redesign as well as the front mount intercooler, front sway bar, and front endlinks.  Other staples of our line up are drivetrain related things like steering rack bushings, short throw shifters, shifter bushings and things that like. Since all these items are different, all of them need to be redone. There are other goodies that we will be making as well, but we can’t show you all our cards!

 

Conclusion

This is absolutely the best STI and WRX Subaru has ever delivered to the US. It is amazing in how it handles compared to the old car, amazing in the quality of the interior, I love the looks, I love almost everything about it.  How much do I love it? In 20 days I had put 1500 miles on the car, which shows how much I love it! Since I picked it up, I have driven this car far more than any other car I have owned. I have beat the living crap out of my car and it just makes me happy every day I drive it. If people can get over the looks, I think anyone who owns this car will be happy and probably keep it longer than any other car they have owned.

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 Posted by on May 22, 2014 About Your Car, New Cars Exposed Tagged with: , , , , , ,
Apr 252014
 

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4/3/14, We found a part we could vastly improve upon.

4/20/14, We had it ready to ship to customers. 

During exploration of the 2015 WRX, we found a part we could make much better than the OEM part and at the same time improve how the car feels. The shifter bushing that controls the front to back action on the transmission, uses a really soft rubber bushing to connect the cable to the shifting mechanism. This soft bushing deflects under shifting, creating a squishy feel in the front to back movement of the shifter. The new WRX 6spd tranny is shifted via cables as opposed to rods like the STI 6spd and older 5spds. This normally doesn’t produce a spongy feel, but Subaru has installed really soft bushings to help reduce vibrations that cause this unwanted squishy feel.  As you can see from the video, the deflection is pretty large.

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How Fast Can We Make This?

After coming up with idea for a new part, we thought, lets see how fast we can get these on the shelf for customers! 8 weeks to get to the point of being sell-able is normally pushing it. This involves the idea to happen, then the webpage to be built and other marketing material to be done before it gets to customers hands. Normally it takes months as there are many parts we end up spending time testing or it takes a couple of prototypes to get it right. In this case we did this all in 20 days from idea to shelf!

This is absolutely the fastest we have ever come up with a part and had it for sale as quick as we have. Also we are pretty sure that this is the first 2015 specific part that ANYONE has come up!

The best part about this is that its totally something you can feel the instant it’s installed. Even better is the whole thing can be installed in 10-15 minutes!

 

Installation Instructions

Since this is so easy to install, below are the quick instructions to give you an idea of what is involved.

Raise your car up on jack stands or using a vehicle hoist. Locate shield protecting cable on right side of tranny.

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Reinstall the large clip back into bracket, then reinstall metal plate.

Lower your car from the jack stands or hoist and shift away! It really is that easy to install! All you need is a pair of pliers and a 12mm socket and ratchet!

 

You can find this for sale on our website HERE!

 Posted by on April 25, 2014 Part Design & Tech Tagged with: , , , , ,
Apr 112014
 

Every time a new car or updated model comes out I spend a bunch of time picking apart the car, comparing it to the old version and or just showing off all the cool stuff. There is no exception to this for the 2015 WRX’s and STI’s, you just need to be patient. Instead of starting out by doing tthis “2015 WRX/STI Exposed”, we spent a lot of time determining what current parts we make will fit the new cars. After that was done, I couldn’t help but start coming up with new parts to make for them!

We already have about 10 new products that we will be making for the 2015 WRX and STI, which are unique to these cars. What are those parts? When will they be available? You will just have to wait and see! Over the next few weeks you will see some new posts that go over both cars in detail, as well as the new parts we have come up with. Keep checking back over the next few weeks!

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 Posted by on April 11, 2014 About Your Car, New Cars Exposed Tagged with: , ,
Nov 272013
 

Normally, when one of our shop cars goes up for sale, we just sell it the way it sits. However, for this car I am going to try something different. The buyer will be able to build the car to the specifications they want. That means, starting with a base car with a base price, then allowing the customer to build it up with a few options.  Whatever stage the car ends up, it can be dyno tuned and given proof of power with the dyno graph. The idea is to offer my 08 STI at a price point that suites almost any customer. To give you an idea, we are looking at setting up the car with 330-500 Wheel HP, and then of course all supporting mods to go with it. That means you have the ability to pick the turbo, pick the fuel system, pick the ECU, and a few other options.

BASE CAR

The base car is a 2008 Subaru STI with 40K miles. There will be a few constants for all packages at the base price of $28,000. This price point, allows any buyer to get a normal loan for a car they typically couldn’t. Starting with $28,000 as a base, is the same price as you would find a used 2008 STI selling for.

  • Car-Wrapped in matte black. Done by me, but with panels not full sheets. Check the write up I did. 2011 STI front bumper.
  • Engine- Built by me with Cosworth Rods, Cosworth Pistons, ARP Head Studs, OEM bearings,and high pressure oil pump mod.
  • Exhaust- PERRIN BigTube Header, custom Uppipe, custom Downpipe, Custom bumper exit catback system w/ exhaust valve.
  • Intercooler- PERRIN FMIC with white powder coated tubes.
  • Fuel system- PERRIN rails, ID1000 Injectors, Properly installed Walbro pump
  • Drivetrain- PERRIN Short shifter, Reverse Lock out Lever, Shifter bushings, Shift knob, and Rear Subframe lockdown.
  • Suspension- PERRIN Front 25mm Swaybar, 22mm Rear Swaybar, Zero Offset PSRS, and H&R Street Performance Coilovers
  • Wheels Tires- PIAA FR-S 18×9.5, Michelin Pilot Sport 275/40/R18
  • Extra- PERRIN Thermal Blanket for Header Uppipe and Turbo.
  • PERRIN Wing riser kit and antenna are the only external items on the car.
  • PERRIN Air Oil Separator

OPTIONS

There are many options for the car, but the below list is showing what we can easily setup. Some of these parts are new and some of them are from one of the many stages of my car.

  • ECU- AccessPORT ($0), Cosworth ECPro w/wideband EGT and ACT ($3000)
  • Gauges- None ($0), Prosport boost/EGT ($200), Defi Amber BF gauges ($400)
  • Methanol Injection using PERRIN PWI-2 , with Aquamist DDS-3 flow gauge/safety control. ($300)
  • Engine Mounts stock (0$), PERRIN Engine and Tranny Mounts ($300) or Group N Engine and Tranny Mounts, ($300)
  • TGV deletes ($200)
  • Comp Clutch ($0), Exedy Twin Plate ($800), ACT Extreme Duty ($600)
  • Turbo Stock Location- Blouch 18GXT($1000), Blouch 3.0XTR ($1400),
  • Turbo Rotated Turbo Kit- Garrett GTX3076R, ($2200) GTX3582 ($3000), Borg Warner EFR6758 ($2200)Borg Warner EFR7670 ($2500), Borg Warner 8374 ($2800)
  • Interior- Dash covered in synthetic suade lightly faded ($0), New-ish stock interior, $1000.
  • PERRIN Fuel Surge Tank setup, $500
  • Extra- We can almost add anything. You name it, we can add it!

CURRENT STATE OF CAR

As it sits, the car has an EFR6758 turbo, Accessport, and tuned to 400 Wheel HP and includes the WMI system and Defi gauges.  Leaving the car in this state, the price is $30,900, and adding some of the options can easily exceed $38,000. The added cost of all these parts/labor comes to well over $15,000 in extras. So a customer looking to buy these parts over time, can save huge money just buying the car already setup.

efr6758vsstg3

 

This car has made 240WHP all the way to 500WHP. These are a couple of the graphs showing recent HP with EFR turbos.

FLAWS WITH CAR

It’s car that has been driven and used for R&D since 2007. So it’s not perfect. The wrap job isn’t perfect, the interior is faded, the engine is built looser to withstand the higher boost and requires good warm up, and the front tires are not in perfect order. You will still find that while it’s not perfect, it is in much better condition than many stock STI’s out there for sale.

HOW TO PURCHASE

When buying a car that has a price higher than the value of a stock car, the buyer may typically have to come up with the extra cash. This may not always be the case, but something to ask your bank about. In this case, I will accept wire transfer, cashiers check, or verified bank check, and if you have some trouble getting a loan, we can actually help you find someone. This car is being sold by me not the company.

Email Jeff.perrin@perrinperformance.com

I think it goes without saying, SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY!! Test rides will be given to serious offers. If you want to know how an STI drives, go to the dealer and drive one. This car isn’t always located at PERRIN Performance, so please call before you want to take a look at it.

Link to a PERRIN PROMO Video done by Chris Miller

 

GALLERY

Below is a few pictures showing off the car in its many states. If there are specific pictures you are looking for, let me know and I will upload them!

tech_turbo_gtx08stimatte

rallyparked

bnwmeet_01

268530_368504469958_513254958_1330462_7342235_n  driving

cluster1

cluster

dash

dash1

tech_turbo_gtx08stimatte2

wrapjob1

 

enginebay1

 

 

 Posted by on November 27, 2013 Cars For Sale Tagged with: , ,